There isn’t a Japanese person in Kyoto who doesn’t know of Teramachi Street. It stretches through the city and has done so in different iterations for many many years. The name Teramachi means “temple street” and there is a robust history behind that name. Though Kyoto is well-known for its many historic temples and shrines, the source of that reputation almost originates with Teramachi Street. In 1590, to keep the capital safe from attack from the east, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, an advisor to the Emperor, consolidated all the temples in Kyoto on Teramachi Street, forming a blockade of religious and sacred places; Teramachi once had more than eighty temples lining the street.
Teramachi Street runs from the north to the south for about 4.6 kilometers effectively bisecting Kyoto. Keiko Hattori, our main character, is fortunate to live in an apartment directly above her restaurant called Den, in the most charming area of Teramachi.
At its most northern point, Teramachi Street is narrower and runs along the eastern side of the Kyoto Imperial Palace. In older times it held well-traveled streetcar tracks. At present time it is a shaded green area with the tall trees from the palace grounds stretching far above the street creating a shady place to walk. The next section of Teramachi Street is where our story takes place. This neighborhood consists of a three-block section just south of the Imperial Palace and north of Kyoto City Hall. It is charming and is populated by some of the most venerable shops in Kyoto including speciality shops that cater to serious craftspeople such as calligraphers and artists. A tea shop on this stretch called Ippodo is world famous as is the art gallery Unsodo. This neighborhood, like almost any other, also has a couple of conbini (convenience stores) such as 7-11. New restaurants often spring up to replace older ones creating a variety of choices for both residents and tourists. Many of the shopkeepers live right above their shops.
Heading south from the city hall after crossing the intersecting street, you enter the most crowded and popular stretch of Teramachi. This is where our street collides with downtown Kyoto, and becomes a covered arcade chock full of restaurants and shops that are always bustling with customers– Kyoto residents and tourists alike. Anyone spending even just a couple of days in Kyoto is sure to visit the arcade pick up Kyoto souvenirs or get a cup of coffee at one of the current social media favorites. There are also plenty of restaurants and compact stands to get ice cream or traditional Japanese sweets. As you walk south in the arcade, you’ll come to the entrance of the famous Nishiki Food market on your right, which is a must visit for foodies.
As Teramachi continues south of the arcade, it loses some of its popularity and turns into a more residential and business area. Originally an area for buying electronics, it slowly shifted with the trends of the day focusing on cosplay, anime and otaku goods. Of the four neighborhoods it is probably the least distinctive.
So, welcome to Teramachi Street where our story takes place.
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