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Welcome to Kyoto’s Teramachi Street

Everybody in Kyoto knows Teramachi Street. It stretches through the city from north to south. The name Teramachi means “temple street” and there is a robust history behind that name. Though Kyoto itself is well-known for its many historic temples and shrines, the source of that reputation could be said to originate with Teramachi Street. In 1590, to keep the capital safe from an attack from the east, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, an advisor to the Emperor, consolidated all the temples in Kyoto on Teramachi Street, forming  a blockade of religious and sacred places. At one time more than eighty temples lined the street. 

At its northernmost point Teramachi Street is quite narrow and collides with the eastern side of the Kyoto Imperial Palace after a few blocks. In older times it held streetcar tracks. The tall trees of the palace grounds creating a shady canopy for pedestrians as it nears Marutamachi Street.

The next section of Teramachi Street is where the series takes place. This neighborhood consists of a three-block section just south of the Imperial Palace and  north of Kyoto City Hall. It is charming and is populated by some of the most well-known shops in Kyoto—including specialty shops that cater to calligraphers and artists.  A tea shop on this stretch called Ippodo is world famous, as is the art gallery Unsodo. This neighborhood, like almost any city area in Japan these days, also has a couple of conbini (convenience stores) such as 7-11. New restaurants often spring up to replace older ones in an everchanging variety of choices for both residents and tourists.  Traditionally, the shopkeepers lived right above their shops. 

Keiko Hattori, the main character of the series, is fortunate to live in an apartment directly above her restaurant called Den, in the most charming area of Teramachi. At least that is what she thinks!

South of City Hall is the most crowded and popular stretch of Teramachi Street. This is where our street collides with downtown Kyoto, and transforms into a covered arcade chock full of restaurants and shops that are always bustling with customers. Anyone spending even just a couple of days in Kyoto is sure to visit the arcade to pick up Kyoto souvenirs or get a cup of coffee at one of the current social media favorites. There are also plenty of restaurants and compact stalls to buy ice cream or traditional Japanese sweets. As you continue to your south, you’ll come to the entrance of the famous Nishiki Food Market on your right, which is a must see for foodies.

After you cross Shijo Street, Teramachi loses some of its sparkle and turns into a mostly residential and business area. Originally an area for buying electronics, it slowly shifted with the trends of the day, perhaps now focusing on cosplay, anime and otaku goods. Of the four neighborhoods it is probably the least distinctive.

So, welcome to Teramachi Street and to Den where our story takes place.

I’m Sara

I’m the author of a cozy mystery series set on Teramachi Street in Kyoto. In 1976 I participated in a study abroad program called the Associate Program of Kyoto (AKP). It gave me a tantalizing taste of Kyoto, but it wasn’t enough for me. So in 1978, after graduating from university, I returned to Kyoto on my own. One night a man stopped and asked if I was waiting for the bus. I was indeed. He let me know that the last bus had already gone and offered to drive me home. Not wanting to spend money on a taxi, I accepted. As he drove, he asked me if I needed a job. I certainly did. He smiled and said that he owned a restaurant and gave me his card. And that’s how I ended up waitressing at a small restaurant on Teramachi Street much like the one that appears in this series. One of the other waitresses became my best friend in Kyoto. Over forty years later we are still in touch and I named my main character for her.

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